Hoisting the Fuselage Top

Hoisting the Fuselage Top


You don't need the top for now.

All of the first building steps of the Fuselage, require the top half be removed, so to save space, I hoisted it to the ceiling.

 The first design element I decided on, was to use 2x6 boards, which stick out beyond the flanges.  This would prevent a squeezing force, caused by a rope loop.  It also prevents the fuselage top from being pulled by using free hanging hooks.

The 2x6 boards provide a stable neutral platform to support the fuselage top.

As for the lifting configuration, I knew that using a single lifting rope, would allow the fuselage to swing and twist.  I learned this from my old Jeep Hardtop.  Therefore, it would be either two or four lifting ropes.  I chose four lifting ropes, because this arrangement would be the most stable.

In order to have lift points exactly where I wanted them, and not just where the ceiling joists were, I ended up having to put ceiling joist blocks in the attic.

Next, I wanted only a single pulling rope, and a single secure hoist mechanism.  Having all four lifting ropes connect to a single pulling rope would reduce my work load and, hopefully, prevent any single lifting rope from breaking loose and dropping the fuselage top on the floor.

Upon analyzing the four lift ropes, and different configurations to connect them, I realized the pulling rope must be strait in line with the lifting ropes.  If the pulling rope is at different angles to the lifting pulleys, the point where the pulling rope met the lifting ropes could move around, which would allow the fuselage to tilt in any direction.

This meant the pulling rope and lifting ropes had to run in a straight line.  To effect this, I added two extra pulleys to the front lifting ropes.  These moved the path of the ropes, so they all pulled in a straight line.
As any extra force, or lifting force, is applied to any of the ropes, it moves them all in the same direction.  This means the lift points did not have to be perfectly balanced, and that bumping, knocking, pulling, or other force will not cause the fuselage top to tip much.

This shows the connection of the four lifting ropes to the pulling rope.  The thimble eyelets and rope clamps, allowed for easy re-adjustments as I tested the set-up.

For hardware, I chose everything much stronger than needed.  The weakest link is the ceiling hooks holding the pulleys, which have a capacity of 170lbs each, for a total lifting capacity of 680lbs.  Or approximately 10 times that of the actual fuselage top weight!

For a secure lifting mechanism, I chose a boat trailer winch.  The reduction gear, means I can hoist the fuselage top with one hand, and very little effort.  This makes the raising and lowering of the fuselage top easier and safer.
The ratchet mechanism in the winch, means that if the handle slips, the fuselage top will not come crashing down.  It also has a pulling (lifting) capacity of 1,000lbs, which again is way more than needed.

That competed the set-up, now time to lift!

For me, I can walk under neath it, and not have any risk of hitting my head.  However, anyone taller than me (5' 9") might have to watch their head, and anyone over 6' will definitely have to really watch out under there!

Another feature of the design, is that the garage door moves between the nose of the fuselage top and ceiling.  After measuring the height difference between the nose and the very top of the fuselage, I was confident, there would be no conflict with the garage door, in the open position.

With the fuselage roof just barely below the ceiling, there is about 6" between the nose and the garage door.  Plenty of room!

With that, testing complete.  The fuselage top is now out of the way, so I can start work on the bottom.